Everest Basecamp Trek

Where do I begin?

I never planned to go to Nepal, and definitely did not plan to go up to Everest basecamp. From India, Nepal is the closest country by land. Logically, when I ran out of an Indian visa I decided to head over to Nepal. When I arrived in Kathmandu after 30 hours on the bus, I definitely did not think I was going to pack up my backpack to climb up to Everest basecamp.



The first 3-4 days were hard, but pleasant compared to what was to come. Lots of going up and down the mountain range. I developed a bit of a headache on day 3, around 3600 metres above sea level. Just as a comparison, Mount Cook is 3724 metres. I wasn’t taking any altitude sickness pills then, as the headache would usually go away after drinking loads of water.

On average, I would walk up and down the hills for 7-10 hours every day, except for 2 rest days I had – one for acclimatisation and one for altitude sickness. My calves are well defined now.



The pretty village of Khumjung


These prayer stones – Mani – were everywhere along the trek. Every now and then I’d add a stone and asked to let me go home safe.

On Day 5, I developed a full-on altitude sickness. Extremely tired, body aches, I felt a bit hungover, and so bloody cold. I took ibuprofen and lots of water, and threw it all up. I started taking altitude sickness pills, and a good 12-hour nap later, I was all back to normal. This was at 4350 metres above sea level.


The village of Dingboche at 4350 metres above sea level, where I got really sick with AMS.


Himalayan moss. Only exists below 3500 metres.


Most days were cold, deserted, and painfully slow. Looking back at my journal entry, I wanted to go down from day 5. But I wasn’t gonna go down without getting to the base camp first. At 4980 metres above sea level, there is only a 53% level of oxygen in the air, no shit I was struggling. Towards the end, my ribcage was hurting from my lungs overworking.


Lonely old stupa in the town of Lobuche, 4980 metres above sea level.

But the really painful days were yet to come…


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